Travels by Bus
See the world on bus, ON foot & on my own.
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Best of Southern Vietnam, from Ho Chi Minh City to the Mekong Delta and floating market
31/12/2015 - 05/01/2016
HO-CHI-MINH-CITY, SAIGON
on TigerAir
Vietnam was on my list of "country to visit" for a long time. Due to the time constraint, I booked the Best of Southern Vietnam in 5 Days with Vietnam Unique Tours, saving us the hassle of searching and planning. It includes a private airport pick up which is great for a country relatively unknown. VUT booked us into the Alagon Western Hotel which is across the street from the Ben Thanh market but away from the traffic. We couldn't be more central than this.
Day 1 Ho Chi Minh City
This is Ho Chi Minh City after midnight on New Year's eve. Motorcycles are a common sight in Vietnam, especially HCMC. We were told that the population of HCMC is 9 million and the motorcycle population is 7 million. This means that every other baby has a motorcycle too. As a joke, our guide told us that a girl will only go out with a guy if he has more than one motorcycles. If you google "how many motorcycles in HCMC, you will be amused to find blogs such this. The next question you should ask is, how to cross the road. Well, like a friend said after he visited, never wait for the traffic to stop but weave between the bikes. Afterall the motorcyclists are not going at high speed. One of our tour guides told us - unfortunately we only met him on our last day - when you cross the street, always move forward and never backwards because there will be traffic behind you and they expect you to move forward.
Ho Chi Minh City was formerly named as Saigon under the French colony and independent republic from 1955 - 75. It is the largest city in Vietnam. Lonely Planet describes it as a City of Energy which is very true as it is constantly "on the move".
According to wikipedia, HCMC started as a fishing village occupied by Khmers then given to Vietnam as a marriage dowry and "developed" by Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh in 1698. It was under French colony until 1945 when it gained independence. The Vietnam War, known also as the Second Indochina war, the Resistance War Against America or simply the American War, spanned over 20 years from 1 November 1955 to 30 April 1975. The US was backing the French in its control over Vietnam. In the War Remains Museum, you can see photos of the war and the atrocities committed during that time. Orange Agent maimed many (unborn) babies, some with 3 legs, 2 elbows on each arm, blind, deformed. If you speak to the American allies e.g. an Australian friend whose uncle fought in the Vietnam war, he said Orange Agent was used to clear the forest so that they can see and differentiate the civilians from the communist Viet Cong. The Viet Cong were no angels actually. The weapons they used were made to kill not just to maim.
Despite their past, many Vietnamese are very resilient and they do not bear a grudge. Afterall, like our tour guide jovial Huy said, grudge just locks you behind in the past and stops you from moving forward (in life). The country is very modern and clean. We were really amazed by the efforts they put in. And the food was great although at the end we were just trying one Vietnamese spring roll to another - fried, non-fried - and a Phở to another - spicy, not spicy - and nothing beats the Phở 2000 which even Bill Clinton visited.








Having a hotel so close to BenThanh market has its advantages and disadvantages. Advantages: we can keep going back there to check the prices; Disadvantages: we bought many (useless) things from clothes to shoes to bags to nuts to coffee.





In the evening when the Ben Thanh market closed, the street before it turned into a pedestrian only zone. There were makeshift stalls that sell what you can find in the Ben Thanh market but most interesting for us are these makeshift food stalls selling cooked seafood and local dishes. It is nice to be able to eat in the open-air.
We arrived on New Year's eve so we decided to walk to the Rex Hotel and hang out at the pedestrian only promenade. We waited for the countdown but most of the fireworks was blocked by the tall buildings along the Saigon River.
Day 2
Jade Emperor Temple, War Remains Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral and Reunification Palace,





How the tour works in HCMC, as we found out, was, each tour agent picks its guests up and brings them to a meeting point and transferred onto a bigger tour bus. It was chaotic because the only people who could speak understandable English is a tour guide. Until you find out who your tour guide is, it is not easy to know which bus you had to get on. We also wasted about an hour just for the transfer.
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We started with the War Remains Museum, where you can learn about the Vietnam War, the atrocities the Allies brought to Vietnam and the deformities the next generation had to live with. But at the end of our visit, I can safely say that the Viet congs are no angels either. Their weapons were also designed to maim rather than kill.
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We visited the Jade Emperor Temple, one of the oldest Chinese temples in HCMC.
The Binh Tay market was closed so after lunch, we went to the Re-Unification Palace, the former palace of President Thieu and his predecessors. It is more like a museum and is used for Government official receptions.
We also went to the nearby Central Post Office and the Notre Dame Cathedral which was built between 1877-1883 and is one of the city’s major landmarks. Neo-Romanesque in form, the Cathedral is said to be the major seat of the Catholic religion in modern Vietnam.
Day 3 and 4: Mekong Delta
My Tho, Ben Tre, Phong Dien floating market, rice noodle making village and Cai Rang floating market
For the next 2 days, we left HCMC and stayed at a village called Can Tho. We were just one of the 2 families that chose a family stay. It was nice to learn how the locals live but the transfer (again) from the bus to the boats was quite precarious. I'm sure my mum thanked the hand of God for leading her through.
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On the way to the village, we stopped at Vinh Trang Temple which had budda in 5 different positions.




The highlight was the Elephant Fish. How do you eat a fish that is standing up and looking at you angrily?! (It was delicious)

After lunch, we were transported in long tail row boats to visit the noodle making factory, coconut candy factory, a bee honey farmer and entertained with local music.



We finally reached Can Tho for our overnight stay. In a village which seems to be disconnected from the modern world, it did however provide us with the modern luxury of wifi accessibility. For free. At least that made me happy for an evening.

The next morning we were picked up and transferred to another boat to visit the Cai Rang floating market. Many of these boat people live on, and they live off their boats this way too.




Day 5
Cu Chi Tunnel
The last tour was to see the Cu Chi Tunnel. It is such a sad place but our tour guide today was the best (and humourous) amongst all the tour guides we ever had.

If you look into the history of Vietnam, the Khmer infiltration was to be blamed for the wars Vietnam had fought in the past. It led to the US War which is the mostly remembered of Vietnam's past. While the Allies destroyed and killed many locals, the Viet Congs and its guerillas were also very cruel, often tortured its own people for defecting and not wanting to fight for them.
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Here at the Cu Chi Tunnel, the trap you see above is just one of the traps invented by the viet congs. It has hidden long and sharp forks buried underground so that anyone who stepped on it would be pierced right through the leg/body and die a slow and painful death. There were more traps but I decided not to show them here because it reminds me constantly of how cruel wars are. And I don't understand why people still go to war.




The photo abovedoesn't show the dimension of the hole but it is about 30 cm x 20 cm. Vietnamese are generally very small but it still took some "technique" to get into one of these holes. And they were indeed very well camouflaged.
The viet congs were very clever in devising an underground system as described in the picture on the left, hidding among farmers which led to the US to use Agent Orange which was named as a herbicidal war to clear the forest and vegetation so that they can get to the underground but Agent Orange contains 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzodioxin (TCDD) which is an extremely toxic dioxin compound hundreds of times greater than the levels considered safe by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. This resulted in a generation of children born with abnormalities like no eyes where eyes should be, 3 legs, 2 elbows in each arm etc. This is not restricted to only Vietnamese children born of parents who were exposed to Agent Orange but also Vietnam war veterans.

This"ant hill" was used as ventilation.